How to Make Altoids Tin Speakers
Place you Altoids Tin on top of the felt you chose, and use your marker to trace out the shape of the tin. Once you have, cut out the shape with your scissors. Now, draw a circle about the same size as your speaker(s) in the center of the felt you cut out (if you are using two speakers, draw two circles). Altoids Tin Speaker: Yet another Altoids tin speaker project. The speaker, circuitry, a single AA battery and mm male-male audio cable all fit together in the tin. Power is supplied with a Maxim MAX chip with circuitry right from the datasheet (see also the MintyB.
By: Charles W. They say that necessity is the mother of invention. While this may be true in many cases, you can also make the argument that good old creativity should weigh in pretty heavily as well. After all, not every invention is necessary or vital to our existence. Just ask Matthew Poage, the creator of the Altoids speaker. Poage is a high school math and computer science teacher and one of many "tinnovators" across the world.
A tinnovator is someone who repurposes an Altoids tin in an innovative way. Altoids, the "curiously strong mint," have been sold for more than years, though they weren't packaged in the tiny metal tins until s [source: Edwards ].
The small, rectangular metal box is now as much a part of the product as the mint inside the package. Tinnovators come in all stripes; some of them stick to the artistic side of things, fashioning miniature shadow boxes or custom speakfr carriers.
Others get spaker little more use out their tinnovation, making tiny survival kits or belt buckles. Poage how to make an altoid tin speaker a background in production pottery and counts potter Byron Temple as his major artistic inspiration. How to create a new user in oracle 10g, a pottery pioneer known for his "functional" pottery designs, passed away inbut not before leaving his mark on the design world.
Poage's goal was to honor Temple's approach in "form, aan, design and utility. How to get rid of common grackle bird wanted to create an "object of virtue. While Poage is a math teacher by day, he also has a background in ma,e pottery, so his creative side is well-entrenched.
He initially became interested in working with Altoids tins when he decided to make what's known as a "minty boost," a device previously created by another tinnovator. These are small, battery powered USB chargers that fit into the even smaller Altoids gum tins.
The idea is that you can plug in a cell phone or iPod when you're on the go without electricity. During his research and development, Poage looked down and noticed that he had a small speaker from a Macintosh computer on his desk alongside a 9-volt battery and an Altoids tin.
He found that the battery and speaker fit pretty well inside the tin and knew immediately that he had a pretty cool project on his hands. The speaker itself is not unlike an ordinary speaker, it's just housed in an Altoids tin instead of a wooden speaker box.
The lid of the tin has small holes drilled into it to allow the sound to escape. Then it's simply a matter of wiring the speaker and gluing everything into place. The power is supplied gin a battery, just like the minty boost, and in the end the result is a working speaker that can plug into an MP3 player altodi how to make an altoid tin speaker out loud.
So you can not only enjoy your music on the go, but you have an instant conversation starter. Being a tinnovator, Poage is not happy resting on his laurels with the speaker tin.
Poage says:. Kurt's Spooky Arduino projects, the Drum Kit would consist of a number of piezo and other pickups that would represent various tln or other instruments. An AVR microcontroller would process the sensors and output midi signals to Processing which would use Java sound libraries to render the sound. Ideally the entire kit power supply, microcontroller, cables, and sensors would fit into an Altoids tin and the sensors would pop up and how to make an altoid tin speaker when the tin is opened.
It's clear that Poage is passionate about his work with the Altoids tins. He sees the tin as both a design element and a constraint. This factors in to using both a creative and realistic approach when working with the tin. Poage says it best, "Respect both and hide neither.
Recycled Crafts. How to Make a Speaker from an Altoids Tin. Read More. Altoids Tin Speaker While Poage is a math teacher by day, he also has a background in production pottery, so his creative side is well-entrenched. Altoids Mints Official Site. July1, Cite This! More Awesome Stuff.
Introduction: How to Make Altoids Tin Speakers
The speaker itself is not unlike an ordinary speaker, it's just housed in an Altoids tin instead of a wooden speaker box. The lid of the tin has small holes drilled into it to allow the sound to escape. DIY Easy Altoids Smalls Speaker (with Amplifier Circuit): Hi, everyone. As you probably know by now I love Altoids so I have a bunch of Altoids tins laying around and I like the idea of use them as cases for . Dec 18, - How to Make Altoids Tin Speakers: Everyone wants speakers, but they are often very expensive, and aren't portable at all. Chances are the you have received a lot of those holiday or birthday cards that sing to you when you open them. Maybe you got an undesirable present that happens.
Yet another Altoids tin speaker project. The speaker, circuitry, a single AA battery and 3. Anyone undertaking this project should have access to standard tools -- pliers, diagonal cutters, wire cutters and strippers, soldering iron and solder, multimeter, electric drill and brad point bits more on these later.
Experience making PCBs is also required. There are now pictures detailing the preparation of the Altoids tin, battery holder, speaker, switch, audio jack, audio cable, and overall installation of parts and final assembly. There are also several pictures of the board with all of the electronic components installed but there is not a step-by-step walk through of this process.
If there are any additional pictures that you think would help the construction process, please let me know. Parts can be obtained from any of a number of electronic suppliers. Substitute as seems reasonable. The only crucial components are the speaker because it fits so nicely into the tin and the Maxim MAX and LM chips because the board is designed for them.
The links following the parts are to DigiKey and All Electronics. As noted in the introduction, the circuitry surrounding the Maxim MAX and LM chips is directly from their respective datasheets.
There are numerous resources on the Internet that describe the process of creating PCBs. Transfer I had and still have considerable difficulty getting consistent transfers onto the copper board. I have also tried following the process detailed by riccibitti with little success my impatience.
It seems as if everyone has a preferred and flawless method, and none of them work well for me! I end up using a Sharpie to fill in the mask. This is overall the weak link in the making of PCBs. Etching After several frightening attempts at etching with Ferric Chloride over a pan of warm water in my kitchen, I moved into a chemistry lab and used the technique described in the Instructable Stop-using-Ferric Chloride.
The materials were cheaper, more readily available local hardware store and CVS , cleaner and safer. The initial etching was fast and aggressive, although I had some trouble with subsequent batches. Cutting I don't have a good method for cutting PCBs. Suggestions and recommendations would be appreciated.
Bits are from Lee Valley. The tin needs two sets of holes. I use a metal punch to mark the hole locations and brad point bits for wood to drill the holes. The brad point bits have a center point and two cutting edges.
They won't skate and the edges cut slowly through the metal. Brad point bits are available from Lee Valley among other places. I mark out the pattern on 6 x 6 graph paper and tape the paper onto the lid of the tin roughly located over the speaker. In order to prevent pushing the top of the tin in, support the inner part of the lid on a small block of wood when punching and drilling the top.
With the paper and wood in place, I dimple the tin using the punch. When drilling, go slowly at first. The cutting edges of the brad points should make an even circle.
Drilling with the bit anything but perpendicular to the surface may result in the bit grabbing and tearing the metal. Space these fairly wide but so far apart that they fall on the curved part of the tin. Center them vertically on the portion of the side visible when the lid is closed. Mark with punch and drill very carefully. The caution about the bits grabbing the tin applies more strongly with the bigger bits. There are numerous resources on the Internet that describe the process of soldering electronic components to PCBs.
See, for example the soldering tutorial at ladyada. The order in which you install components doesn't really matter, although I have found working from smallest to largest them easiest. I assemble the board in the following order. Jumpers I use jumpers small pieces of wire in a few places instead of having a double sided board. There a several places in this design where I could not figure out a simple way of getting a wire from one place to another without crossing a second wire.
Jumpers were my solution. Note that the schematic calls for a second diode D2 where power enters the LM chip. This was necessary when the circuit only consisted of the amplifier portion; I don't think it is necessary any more and I replace it with a jumper. Chip holders I put the chip holders in next. The two provide a relatively stable surface on which to balance the board upside down for future soldering.
The orientation of the chip holders matters -- make sure the notched end is located as illustrated so that the chips are oriented correctly when inserted. Small capacitors The four small capacitors go in next. The spacing between holes is a little small so care must be taken fitting the diode in place. More important, however, is getting the orientation of the diode correct. Large capacitors and inductor These go in easily and form a sort of wall to support the battery holder. Care must be taken to ensure the correct orientation of the electrolytic capacitors.
Note the location of the white strip on each capacitor. The orientation of the inductor does not matter. Check your work Be careful to orient the components properly. The orientation of the chip holders, the electrolytic capacitors and the diode matter. Check the layout diagram and the schematic or just make sure things match up with the pictures! The battery holder barely fits into the tin and the heat shrink tubing protects the leads from abrasion.
The orientation of the battery holder in the tin is chosen to keep the long lead on the component side of the tin. Cut the end of the heat shrink tubing at an angle to get a closer fit to the holder. Use diagonal cutters to cut the two tabs that hold the battery in. This will make replacing the battery considerably easier once everything is assembled. The rounded corners of the speaker do not fit nicely into the corners of the Altoids tin.
Use diagonal cutters to cut away at the two left corners and increase the radius of the curve. Before assembly, check that the speaker fits snuggly under the left hand lip of the tin. When soldering, loop the wires through the holes in the lugs for extra reinforcement. Note that the wires go to the left when the speaker is upside down and will go correctly to the right when the speaker is right side up in the tin.
Note that the red wire is above the black wire. Cut the extra lug off the DPST switch if necessary it may contact the bottom of the speaker and is not used in this project.
The wires need to be bent twice in order to fit around the speaker. They should follow the walls of the tin. This is the most complicated piece to make. Start by straightening the lugs with a pair of needle nose pliers. Then bend any terminals that are part of an integrated switch out of the way. Join the left and right signal lugs with a small piece of wire. This is supposed to merge the left and right signals from the input device -- I hope it does!
This one of the trickier solders. I carefully cut a piece of green wire to length, strip the ends and bend it fit exactly. Once I have a good fit, I flow a bit of solder onto the lugs, position the wire, and then melt the solder and push the ends in place. Usually I burn my fingers. You have to work quickly and be careful not to melt the switch.
Note the orientation of the audio jack in the tin. I have the input wire red coming of the top lug and the ground wire black. Solder wires to two lugs on the switch and reinforce the connections with heat shrink tubing. The wires need to be bent back and follow the walls of the tin. It is a good idea to do a continuity check at this point. Plug in the cable and make sure that the two signal wires connect and the ground connects to ground.
The ends of the audio cable are fragile and need to be protected with heat shrink tubing. Cut the leads of the external parts to length one at a time by fitting the board into the tin and placing the part over it. Too long is better than too short. Solder them into place in the following order -- switch, audio jack, battery holder, speaker.
Before the final assembly, it is a good idea to check the circuit. Make sure that the two chips are in and a properly charged battery is installed in the correct orientation. Turn on the Altoids Tin Speaker and hope for the best. You should hear a faint hum from the speaker.